Finding and correcting leaks

If a leak occurs and cannot be found (such as in the filter box), it may be best to let it leak until it stops. Then the origin of the leak is at the level of where the water stops.

If, for example, the water level stops where the bubble jets are, that is where you should search.

Example of how a search can be done.

Each side module consists of 6 panel boards and the module is screwed in 3 places.

Before removing modules, it is helpful to place masking tape under the edge of the barrel and press it into the module. This will make it easier to get the module at the correct height when it is to be installed.

When the first module has been removed and you see which panel board is the last, the masking  tapeis cut off so that it can remain on the module that is being removed.

The other modules are also numbered so that a number is written on the masking that is cut off at every sixth panel board. See the first 4 pictures.

The picture above shows a newer model of fitting to the suction side of the filtration, this is what the older model looks like:

If this is the cause of the leak, it may be that the thread behind the nut has cracked. Then the fitting must be replaced. On the opposite side from the insulated filter box there is also the same type of fitting, so there may also be reason to check there. On the newer models only the fitting itself needs to be replaced.

If you have an older model of fitting: We have replacement parts for these that are easily replaced with a quick-release coupling. Replacement parts for suction side and return side (right)

If the leak comes from the bubble valve, replace it like this:

Unscrew the nut that holds the T-coupling and remove the O-ring.

Tap the fitting to get the gasket out as well. Note the groove on the left side.

Use a slotted screwdriver to pry off the fastening nut. All parts are now disassembled. Replace broken parts.

Reassembly is done in reverse order.